Crochet to Go

IMG_5572
Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

I'm still in my cowl phase. This is the same pattern as before, using a soft acrylic yarn. It's proving very practical - it's perfect for skiing, an extra layer at work, or bunching under your collar to keep your neck warm.

I love how this project came out. I've been making my way through the Make It Yourself library, a 12-volume craft collection packed with great patterns and ideas. This particular pattern is the cover feature for Volume. 6, and originally a knitting project. The pattern below is an adaptation for crochet, in a 3-6 month size. It's a simple pattern, and would be easy to adapt for larger sizes or different decorative treatments.

Striped Baby Dress Pattern
Materials Needed:

• H hook (5 mm)
• 2 skeins (140 grams) sport weight yarn, main color (color A)
• 20 grams each sport weight yarn, 2 additional colors (color B, C)
• 2 buttons

Yarn tested: Bernat Soy, 70g per skein, 50% soy/50% acrylic
Fits: 6-9 months

Front:
Using color A, ch 40.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc)

Row 2-3: Sc in each sf across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc) Fasten off color A.

Using color B:
Row 4-6: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc) Fasten off color B.

Using color A:
Row 7-9: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc) Fasten off color A.

Using color C:
Row 10-12: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc) Fasten off color C.

Using color A:
Row 13-14: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc)

Row 15: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (37 sc)

Row 16-19: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (37 sc)

Row 20: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (35 sc)

Row 21-24: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (35 sc)

Row 25: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (33 sc)

Row 26-30: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (33 sc)

Row 31: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (31 sc)

Row 32-44: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (31 sc)

Row 45: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (29 sc) Fasten off color A.

Using color B:
Row 46-47: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (27, 25 sc) Fasten off color B.

Using color A:
Row 48-49: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (23, 21 sc) Fasten off color A.

Using color C:
Row 50-51: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (19, 17 sc) Fasten off color C.

Using color A:
Row 52: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (15 sc)

Row 53-73: Continue working rows of sc, alternating colors in 2-row groups. Fasten off.

Back:
Work rows 1-44 for front. Fasten off.

Finishing:
Sew side seams to waist on either side. Fasten off.

Row 1: Attach yarn with ss to front corner (either one). Ch 6, turn, skip first ch and sc in remaining chains. SS to join to bib, turn.

Row 2: Ch 6, turn, skip first ch and sc in remaining chains. Leaving 1 row of bodice unworked, SS to join to bib, turn.

Repeat row 2, working ribbed edging evenly around to opposite side of bib. At each side of waist, leave 2 rows of bodice unworked to shape corner. Fasten off.

Straps (make 2):
Mark desired placement of straps with safety pins (~ 1 inch from center of back).

Row 1: Attach yarn with ss to one of the desired places. Ch 1, work 1 sc in same st and next 4 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn (5 sc). Repeat row 2 until straps are 11 inches long.

Second-to-last row: Sc in first st. Ch 3, skip 3 sts, sc. Ch 1, turn.

Final row: Repeat row 2. Fasten off.

Weave in any loose ends. Sew buttons to top corners of bib.

At long last, here's the pineapple sweater. I found a version of this online years ago (it has since been taken down) and loved it, despite the fact that it was very, very small. More of a doll pattern that a baby one. I've made it several times over the years, with varying degrees of success. This version is carefully tested and re-engineered substantially, and should fit 3-6 months. It's worked in a single piece, adding the sleeves after the body is complete.

Materials needed:
- J hook / 6.00 mm
- 120 grams sport weight yarn / 300 yards
- 4 buttonsYarn tested: Lily Chin Gramercy (2 skeins required), Sirdar Snuggly (1.75 skeins required).

Fits 3-6 months

Bodice:
Row 1: Ch 56 loosely. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (55 sc)

Row 2: Sc in each of first 8 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 7 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 17 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 7 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc. Sc in last 8 sc. (63 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in each of first 9 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 9 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 19 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 9 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 9 sc. (71 stitches)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc in each of first 10 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 11 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 21 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 11 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 10 sc. (79 stitches)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 8: Sc in each of first 11 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 13 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 23 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 13 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 11 sc. (87 stitches)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in each of first 12 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 15 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 25 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 15 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 12 sc. (95 stitches)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Sc in each of first 13 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 17 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 27 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 17 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 13 sc. (103 stitches)

Row 13: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 14: Sc in each of first 14 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 19 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 29 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 19 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 14 sc. (111 stitches)

Row 15: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 16: Sc in each of first 15 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 21 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 31 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 21 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 15 sc. (119 stitches)

Row 17: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 18: Sc in each of first 16 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 23 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 33 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 23 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 16 sc. (127 stitches)

Row 19: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (127 sts)

Row 20: Sc in first 18 sc. Ch 7. Skip 27 sc (armhole), sc in next 37 sc. Ch 7, skip 27 sc (armhole). Sc in last 18 sc. Ch 1, turn.

Row 21: Sc in each sc and in each ch across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 22: Skip first st, dc in next 7 sc. Work pattern: (skip 4 sc, 7 trc in next sc, ch 2, skip 4 sc). Dc in next 13 sc. Work pattern, dc in next 9 sc. Work pattern, dc in next 13 sc. Work pattern. Dc in last 8 sc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 23: Skip first st, dc in next 6 dc. *[Skip dc, sc in first trc, ch 2, [sc, ch2] in sp after 2, 3, 4, and 5th trc. Sc in final trc. Skip first dc, dc in next 11 dc.] Repeat *, adjusting dcs to leave only first and last of each dc group unworked. Dc in last 7 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 24: Skip first st, dc in next 6 dc. Work pattern: (ch 2, 7 trc in the center of the fan, ch 2). Dc in next 11 dc. Work pattern, dc in next 7 sc. Work pattern, dc in next 11 sc. Work pattern. Dc in last 7 sc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 25: Skip first st, dc in next 5 dc. Work pattern: [Skip dc and ch 2 sp. Sc in first trc, ch 2, [sc, ch2] in sp after 2, 3, 4, and 5th trc. Sc in final trc. Skip first dc, dc in next 11 dc.] Work pattern, adjusting dcs to leave only first and last of each dc group unworked. Dc in last 6 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 26: Skip first st, dc in next 4 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern: ch 2. In three central sts of fan pattern (sc in next loop, ch 3) three times. 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 7 dc, 2 dc in final dc. Work pattern, adjusting dcs to work each dc. Do not work 2 dc in last st. Ch 3, turn.

Row 27: Skip first st, dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Work pat: [Ch 2, sc in ch loop. (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 3 times. Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc.] Dc in next 8 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 5 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 9 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 6 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 28: Skip first st, dc in next 6 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pat: [Ch 2, skip first 2 ch loops, sc in ch loop, skip next 2 ch loops, Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc.] Dc in next 11 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 7 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 9 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 7 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 29: Skip first st, dc in next 7 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pat: [Ch 2, skip first ch loop, sc in sc, skip next ch loop. Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc.] Dc in next 11 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 9 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 13 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 8 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 30: Skip first st, dc in next 8 dc. [Pat: 2 dc in next dc. Skip to next dc, 2 dc in next dc.] Dc in next 15 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 11 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 13 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 9 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 31: Skip first st, work row in dc. Chain 2, turn.

Row 32: Skip first st, work row in hdc. Chain 1, turn.

Row 33: Sc in each stitch across bottom. 3 sc in corner. 2 sc in each end row to front of bodice. 1 sc in each end row of bodice. 3 sc in end of row 1 (neck corner), 1 sc in each sc of neck. 3 sc in opposite neck edge. Work buttonhole role: *Ch 2, skip next stitch. Sc in next 5 sts.* Repeat from * to * 3 times. Sc in end of each row to corner. Ch 1, turn.

Row 34: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 space to neck. Sc in 1st 2 stitches of 3 sc group at corner of neck. Ch 2, hdc in same stitch. Skip next sc. *sl st, ch 2, hdc in same sc, skip next sc*. Repeat from * to * along neck to opposite neck edge. Sl st in 2nd sc of 3sc group at neck edge. Fasten off.

SLEEVES:
Row 1: Attach yarn with sl st to any stitch in armhole. Ch 2. Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to join in top of ch 2. Ch 2, turn.

Row 2-10: Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to join in top of ch 2. Ch 2, turn.

Row 11: (decrease row) Sc in same stitch. *sc next two stitches together, sc in next stitch* around. Sl st to join.

Row 12: Ch 2, hdc in same stitch. Skip next sc. *sl st, ch 2, hdc in same sc, skip next sc* around. Fasten off.

FINISHING: Weave in any loose ends. Sew buttons on to align with button holes.

Here's a scarf version of my recently posted pattern. I used a worsted weight yarn (Lily Chin Gramercy, 100% Merino Wool) and an 11 mm hook. I also added two rows of sc around the entire scarf to give it a more finished edge. It's very soft, the edges roll just a bit, and it drapes beautifully.

The "Morning Fog Mitts" pattern (available on ravelry) is emerging as my holiday gift of choice. Here are a few of the recent versions, all using leftover scraps of yarn.

IMG_3472_2.JPG
Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

Here's the finished adult ribbed hat, previously described in this post. My first pass at it was far too large, and had to wrap out most of the stitches and start over. It came out perfectly, eventually - very soft, thin, and warm. I'm happy with the trim color - the request was for blue with a red stripe, but I didn't want a bright, nautical look. The red is nearly pink, and much more subtle.

I've been traveling for the last month - Catalina, Oregon, and two great weeks in Italy. I have several projects partially completed, and am looking forward to having some down time to wrap them up. In the meantime, here are two pics from friends of their adorable children modeling recent gifts.

IMG_2409.JPG
Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

This pattern was inspired by Andrea’s (gibsongirl @ Ravelry) “Modern Baby Bib” Knit pattern. I worked up a crocheted variant with a simple scalloped edge. I've made a few versions - any machine washable worsted weight yarn will do.

Materials needed
• 1/2 skein / 25 grams cotton or acrylic worsted weight yarn
• Crochet hook: 3.75 mm (F)
• Yarn needle
• 1 button

Gauge
In pattern, 8 sc and 10 rows = 2 inches

Directions
Ch 26, turn.

R1: Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (25 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R2-28: Sc in each st across (25 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R29: Sc in each st across (25 sc). Ch 48, turn. [Start of neck strap.]

R30: Sc in second ch from hook and each subsequent ch. Continue working sc along side edge of bib. At lower edge, turn.

R31: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), skip first sc, dc into next sc, *ch 1, skip first sc, dc into each of next 2 sc; repeat from * until 2 sc remain. [Note: work dec-dc if needed to ensure that you end on a 2 dc-group.] Ch 3, ss into final sc. Ch 1, turn.

R32: Sc in sl and first 3 ch, sc in first dc, *skip dc, work 5 dc into ch 1 space, skip 2 dc, work 1 sc into next ch 1 space, skip dc; repeat from * to end. Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Finishing
Sew on button, block if needed.

Here's another project gone amiss that I'm very pleased with. I started with the shoulder shaping and stripe pattern from “Bringing Up Baby”, in the Make It Yourself Library, Volume 5. The pattern had a picture of the yarn weight - apparently my choice wasn't close to their yarn at all. Rather than making a very large cardigan, I improvised a button-front cape with buttoned arm holes. Perfect for cold days and layering!

It's a quick pattern and would work with a variety of fibers (I used cotton: Bernat Princess and Lily Sugar and Cream, 75 grams each).

Baby Cape Pattern:

Materials needed
• 75 gm / 3 oz. cotton worsted weight each for Color A and B (150 gm / 6 oz total)
• Crochet hook: 3.75 mm
• Yarn needle
• 2 buttons

Gauge
In pattern, 16 sc and 13 rows = 4 inches
Size
6-12 months

Directions
Note: color pattern is as follows: R1-2 A, 3-6 B, 7-8 A, then alternating B and A.

Using Color A, ch 45, turn.

R1: Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across (44 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R2: *Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * across (52 sc), switching to Color B at end of row. Ch 1, turn.

R3: *Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * across (60 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R4: *Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * across (68 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R5: *Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * across (76 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R6: *Sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * across (84 sc), switching to Color A at end of row. Ch 1, turn.

R7: *Sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * across (92 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R8: *Sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * across (100 sc), switching to Color A at end of row. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 9-21 are worked in hdc, alternating colors for each row. To avoid cutting the string at the end of each row, always work 2 rows from the right side, and then two rows from the wrong side.

R9-21: Hdc in each stitch across, switching to opposite color at end of row. Ch 2, turn.

R22: Hdc in first 16 sts. Skipping next 15 sts, ch 11, sc in 6th ch from hook (forming button loop), ch 6. Hdc in next 22 sts. Skipping next 17 sts, ch 11, sc in 6th ch from hook (forming button loop), ch 6. Hdc in each st to end, switching to opposite color at end of row. Ch 2, turn.

R23: Hdc in each stitch and ch across , switching to opposite color at end of row. Ch 2, turn.

R24-31: Hdc in each stitch across, switching to opposite color at end of row. Ch 2, turn.

Edging
Working along nearest front edge (not the bottom), evenly space sc. Ch 1, turn, sc along front edge, bottom edge, and opposite front edge (working 2 sc in each corner). Ch 1, turn, sc along front edge, evenly spacing 4 buttonholes (to make a button hole, ch 2, skip 2sc). Ch 1, turn, sc along same edge. Ch 1, turn, work 1 more row of sc on same edge, bottom edge, and opposite front edge.

Fasten off, weave in loose ends. Sew 4 buttons to front edge, 2 buttons to arm openings.

This project was almost a failure - but I absolutely love it.

I have one New Year's Resolution - I absolutely cannot buy new yarn for every project. Every other project at best, and ideally less than that. My stash has reached unmanageable proportions. This project was one of my "treats" - I ordered the 4 skeins of the recommended yarn (the pattern, "Seduction", is available on ravelry.com).

It unfortunately was not nearly enough to complete the scarf - only 9 inches per skein. At $10/skein, well - you can do the math. Really hard to justify. It's also a fairly stiff yarn to use for a scarf. Which led to the gater! Stiffness is a wonderful quality in a gater. I used nearly 2 skeins to finish it. I incorporated one button hole at the top (for cold ski days), and am using a clip-on earring to secure it in the center. Adding a button in the center would work well too, but I liked the look of the earring.

I'm wrapping up an excruciating crochet project - crafting the Obama logo into a Christmas ornament. As you can see, it has required a number of attempts, some much more successful than the others. My favorite - and final - draft is in the upper left.

I just finished three hats for little friends. I'm really hoping the sizing is right - I'm great at baby sizing and have adult hats down, but everything in between is a bit of a guess. It's the curse of living in the Bay Area - you just don't see kids very often. The pink hat is my favorite (it's worked in sc with a winding seam; the others are basic dc hats worked in a continuous loop).

My Christmas project list is starting to come together. It's daunting - I actually had to make a spreadsheet to keep track of everything - but it's starting to come together. The first two hats are done (grey and green, using Berocco's Pure Merino and the pattern mentioned previously). The pink hat I'm keeping for myself. I wasn't loving it during the creation process (too pink!), but I really like it on. It's somehow rosy enough to not be obnoxious, and I love the feel of the yarn. It's from a pattern I bookedmarked back in January: I Like Lemon's Button-Tab Hat. The original is a knitting pattern; I made a crocheted version using one of my basic hat patterns and a single crochet border (worked perpendicularly to the hat and in the back loops only). Very cute on - it's subtle, but nicely decorative. I'll take some more photos of the yarn this weekend in better light. (I've hit that unfortunate part of the year where I'm at work during the daylight hours, and leave and come home in the dark.)

Graham modeling his sweater (the original from the Crochet to Go Deck).

The best way to describe this project is as a successful failure. It was supposed to be a hat (you can find the pattern on Ravelry, Vintage Bonnet by Sidsel Sangild) and I somehow managed to get it horribly wrong. A combination of too small hook and thin yarn, is my guess. It's not a bad vase, though. I have it around a ceramic cup for now, and plan to starch it to stand alone as a bowl.

Here's the adult version of the Sejia Set hat from The Happy Hooker. I added two more increase rows, used thick yarn (Berroco's Pure Merino, color #8573), and a 6.5mm hook. I think it's this year's Christmas hat - it's super soft, worked up in under three hours, and looks good on everyone I've tried in on.

I have 4 friends expecting boys right now. There's only one girl coming - and she's a twin of one of the boys. I took a road trip last week and got started on a few of the presents. It's surprisingly hard to find great boy crochet gifts. If you have any ideas, let me know. Right now I'm thinking rattles and squishy balls, hats, and bibs. This blue bib is a ribbed variant of the pattern I've been working on.

I'm hooked. I've spent every night this week poking around on the site, cataloging work, and uploading images. It's exactly what I've been looking for - a visual index to both projects completed and projects I'd like to make. One of my favorite features is the library, where you get links to the projects you've made from a book (it would be even better if you could see your pictures). I also love the queue feature, for projects you'd like to make. It's awesome to be able to see pictures of a completed projects, scan through problems people have made, and see the results of using different yarns and hooks. If you're not already signed up, do it today! My account name is AliciaMalia if you want to look me up.

Additional features I'd like:
- A view to see all projects in any given book
- A way to see what I've made in a book, and what I'd like to make, all on the same screen

There is a printing error on the baby hat pattern in the Crochet to Go Deck (thanks to Andrea for pointing it out). Here is the corrected pattern:

Baby Hat
Warm, soft, secure, and adorable—everything you need in a baby hat. This is a very quick pattern, easy to complete in a weekend.

Level of difficulty: 2

Materials needed

• 40 grams/85 yds light green in medium worsted weight (I used TLC Amore in 3627 Light Thyme)
• 30 grams/65 yds dark green in medium worsted weight (I used TLC Amore in 3628 Dark Thyme)
• Crochet hook size F-5 (3.75 mm)
• Yarn needle
  

Gauge
In pattern, 18 sc and 20 rows = 4 inches

Sizing for 0–3 months, changes are shown in brackets [3-6, 6–12 months].

Directions
With light green, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook (6 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.

Rnd 3: Sc in each st (12 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.

Rnd 4: Sc in first st, 2 sc in foll st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in foll st. Repeat from * around (18 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.

Rnd 5: Repeat rnd 3.

Rnd 6: Sc in each of first 2 sts, 2 sc in foll st, *sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in foll st. Repeat from * around (24 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.

Rnd 7: Repeat rnd 3.

Rnd 8: Sc in each of first 3 sts, 2 sc in foll st, *sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in foll st. Repeat from * around (30 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.

Rnd 9: Repeat rnd 3.

Rnd 10: Sc in each of first 4 sts, 2 sc in foll st, *sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in foll st. Repeat from * around (36 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.

Rnd 11: repeat rnd 3.

Rnd 12: Sc in each of first 5 sts, 2 sc in foll st, *sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in foll st. Repeat from * around (42 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.

-----------------
[For 3–6 months, work 13A–14A, for 6-12 months, work 13A-16A]
Rnd 13A: Repeat rnd 3.

Rnd 14A: Sc in each of first 6 sts, 2 sc in foll st, *sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in foll st. Repeat from * around (48 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.

Rnd 15A: Repeat rnd 3.

Rnd 16A: Sc in each of first 7 sts, 2 sc in foll st, *sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in foll. Repeat from * around (54 sc). Join with sl st to first st. Ch 1, turn.
------------------------

Rnd 13–20 [15-24, 17–26]: Repeat rnd 3. Fasten off light green.

Rnd 21–34 [25-38, 27–40]: Attach dark green to any st, repeat rnd 3. Fasten off dark green.

Ear flaps (optional—make 2)
With dark green, ch 12 [14, 16].

1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across (11 sc). Ch 1, turn.

2–4 [2-5, 2-6]: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

5–8 [6-10, 7-12]: Dec sc, to combine 2 sts, at beginning and end of row, sc in all other sts. Ch 1, turn.

9 [11, 13]: Dec sc over 3 remaining sts. Do not fasten off.

Ch 50 to make a cord to tie the flaps with. Fasten off.

Finishing
Sew the flaps to the hat right along the seam between dark and light green. Flaps should be grouped together slightly, not placed 180 degrees apart. Weave in any loose ends.

Finished dimensions
7 1/2 [8 1/2, 9 1/2] inches in diameter.

This was a quick, use-up-some-leftover-yarn project. The pattern is from the 2007 edition of the Crochet Pattern a Day calendar. It's not exactly my taste, but it's a surefire grandmother or mom gift. Even an easy hostess gift. Total production time averaged about 30 minutes.

This pattern (the pink one is the original) was designed to be identical on either side, which translates to 2 sets of petals and a ring of leaves in between. The realist in me found this odd - flowers don't work that way. I streamlined the pattern (yellow) to have a single side and more leaf coverage on the back.

It would be simple to make your own custom pattern from any flower pattern you've already tested - just add a long chain and tassel at the end. If you're looking for inspiration, here's an extensive list of flower patterns.