Crochet to Go

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

This sweater is much more attractive in person - it's soft and cozy, and the colors much more muted. The pattern posted online (http://dragonknits.webs.com/patterns.htm) is missing several steps, so I improvised the sleeve lengths and trim. I suspect the sleeves alone should be gathered, but I added a border to the bottom edge and a slight decrease to the neckline. It's a baby bomber jacket?

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

It's spring, but it doesn't quite feel like it. We've had an inch of rain (so far) today. Here's a quick winter gift that's great for using up scraps of yarn. Search for "sweet little mittens" on ravelry to find the pattern.

I love how this project came out. I've been making my way through the Make It Yourself library, a 12-volume craft collection packed with great patterns and ideas. This particular pattern is the cover feature for Volume. 6, and originally a knitting project. The pattern below is an adaptation for crochet, in a 3-6 month size. It's a simple pattern, and would be easy to adapt for larger sizes or different decorative treatments.

Striped Baby Dress Pattern
Materials Needed:

• H hook (5 mm)
• 2 skeins (140 grams) sport weight yarn, main color (color A)
• 20 grams each sport weight yarn, 2 additional colors (color B, C)
• 2 buttons

Yarn tested: Bernat Soy, 70g per skein, 50% soy/50% acrylic
Fits: 6-9 months

Front:
Using color A, ch 40.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc)

Row 2-3: Sc in each sf across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc) Fasten off color A.

Using color B:
Row 4-6: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc) Fasten off color B.

Using color A:
Row 7-9: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc) Fasten off color A.

Using color C:
Row 10-12: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc) Fasten off color C.

Using color A:
Row 13-14: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (39 sc)

Row 15: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (37 sc)

Row 16-19: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (37 sc)

Row 20: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (35 sc)

Row 21-24: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (35 sc)

Row 25: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (33 sc)

Row 26-30: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (33 sc)

Row 31: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (31 sc)

Row 32-44: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (31 sc)

Row 45: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (29 sc) Fasten off color A.

Using color B:
Row 46-47: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (27, 25 sc) Fasten off color B.

Using color A:
Row 48-49: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (23, 21 sc) Fasten off color A.

Using color C:
Row 50-51: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (19, 17 sc) Fasten off color C.

Using color A:
Row 52: Dec sc in first two sts. Sc to end of row, dec sc in last two sts. Ch 1, turn. (15 sc)

Row 53-73: Continue working rows of sc, alternating colors in 2-row groups. Fasten off.

Back:
Work rows 1-44 for front. Fasten off.

Finishing:
Sew side seams to waist on either side. Fasten off.

Row 1: Attach yarn with ss to front corner (either one). Ch 6, turn, skip first ch and sc in remaining chains. SS to join to bib, turn.

Row 2: Ch 6, turn, skip first ch and sc in remaining chains. Leaving 1 row of bodice unworked, SS to join to bib, turn.

Repeat row 2, working ribbed edging evenly around to opposite side of bib. At each side of waist, leave 2 rows of bodice unworked to shape corner. Fasten off.

Straps (make 2):
Mark desired placement of straps with safety pins (~ 1 inch from center of back).

Row 1: Attach yarn with ss to one of the desired places. Ch 1, work 1 sc in same st and next 4 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn (5 sc). Repeat row 2 until straps are 11 inches long.

Second-to-last row: Sc in first st. Ch 3, skip 3 sts, sc. Ch 1, turn.

Final row: Repeat row 2. Fasten off.

Weave in any loose ends. Sew buttons to top corners of bib.

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

Here's a new pattern I found on ravelry (Olivia's Butterfly by Valerie Whitten). It's cute and feminine, and works up quickly. It's also the perfect ponytail hat - worn backwards the gathered stitches help keep the hat from riding up the back of your head.

Here's my first Doris Chan pattern (available as a free Ravelry download). It's really bright - I can't decide if this yarn was the wrong choice. It might be perfect over a sundress, though?

It's a quick pattern, but eats yarn - I just barely finished this with 4 skeins. I skipped the final row, which I didn't like the look of (too pointy). A pin of some sort will be needed to keep the shawl on.

At long last, here's the pineapple sweater. I found a version of this online years ago (it has since been taken down) and loved it, despite the fact that it was very, very small. More of a doll pattern that a baby one. I've made it several times over the years, with varying degrees of success. This version is carefully tested and re-engineered substantially, and should fit 3-6 months. It's worked in a single piece, adding the sleeves after the body is complete.

Materials needed:
- J hook / 6.00 mm
- 120 grams sport weight yarn / 300 yards
- 4 buttonsYarn tested: Lily Chin Gramercy (2 skeins required), Sirdar Snuggly (1.75 skeins required).

Fits 3-6 months

Bodice:
Row 1: Ch 56 loosely. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (55 sc)

Row 2: Sc in each of first 8 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 7 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 17 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 7 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc. Sc in last 8 sc. (63 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in each of first 9 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 9 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 19 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 9 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 9 sc. (71 stitches)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sc in each of first 10 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 11 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 21 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 11 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 10 sc. (79 stitches)

Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 8: Sc in each of first 11 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 13 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 23 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 13 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 11 sc. (87 stitches)

Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in each of first 12 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 15 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 25 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 15 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 12 sc. (95 stitches)

Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Sc in each of first 13 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 17 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 27 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 17 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 13 sc. (103 stitches)

Row 13: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 14: Sc in each of first 14 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 19 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 29 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 19 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 14 sc. (111 stitches)

Row 15: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 16: Sc in each of first 15 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 21 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 31 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 21 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 15 sc. (119 stitches)

Row 17: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 18: Sc in each of first 16 sc. Inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 23 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 33 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in next 23 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sc.
Sc in last 16 sc. (127 stitches)

Row 19: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (127 sts)

Row 20: Sc in first 18 sc. Ch 7. Skip 27 sc (armhole), sc in next 37 sc. Ch 7, skip 27 sc (armhole). Sc in last 18 sc. Ch 1, turn.

Row 21: Sc in each sc and in each ch across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 22: Skip first st, dc in next 7 sc. Work pattern: (skip 4 sc, 7 trc in next sc, ch 2, skip 4 sc). Dc in next 13 sc. Work pattern, dc in next 9 sc. Work pattern, dc in next 13 sc. Work pattern. Dc in last 8 sc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 23: Skip first st, dc in next 6 dc. *[Skip dc, sc in first trc, ch 2, [sc, ch2] in sp after 2, 3, 4, and 5th trc. Sc in final trc. Skip first dc, dc in next 11 dc.] Repeat *, adjusting dcs to leave only first and last of each dc group unworked. Dc in last 7 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 24: Skip first st, dc in next 6 dc. Work pattern: (ch 2, 7 trc in the center of the fan, ch 2). Dc in next 11 dc. Work pattern, dc in next 7 sc. Work pattern, dc in next 11 sc. Work pattern. Dc in last 7 sc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 25: Skip first st, dc in next 5 dc. Work pattern: [Skip dc and ch 2 sp. Sc in first trc, ch 2, [sc, ch2] in sp after 2, 3, 4, and 5th trc. Sc in final trc. Skip first dc, dc in next 11 dc.] Work pattern, adjusting dcs to leave only first and last of each dc group unworked. Dc in last 6 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 26: Skip first st, dc in next 4 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern: ch 2. In three central sts of fan pattern (sc in next loop, ch 3) three times. 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 7 dc, 2 dc in final dc. Work pattern, adjusting dcs to work each dc. Do not work 2 dc in last st. Ch 3, turn.

Row 27: Skip first st, dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Work pat: [Ch 2, sc in ch loop. (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 3 times. Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc.] Dc in next 8 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 5 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 9 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 6 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 28: Skip first st, dc in next 6 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pat: [Ch 2, skip first 2 ch loops, sc in ch loop, skip next 2 ch loops, Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc.] Dc in next 11 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 7 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 9 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 7 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 29: Skip first st, dc in next 7 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pat: [Ch 2, skip first ch loop, sc in sc, skip next ch loop. Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc.] Dc in next 11 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 9 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 13 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 8 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 30: Skip first st, dc in next 8 dc. [Pat: 2 dc in next dc. Skip to next dc, 2 dc in next dc.] Dc in next 15 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 11 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 13 dc. 2 dc in next dc. Work pattern. Dc in next 9 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 31: Skip first st, work row in dc. Chain 2, turn.

Row 32: Skip first st, work row in hdc. Chain 1, turn.

Row 33: Sc in each stitch across bottom. 3 sc in corner. 2 sc in each end row to front of bodice. 1 sc in each end row of bodice. 3 sc in end of row 1 (neck corner), 1 sc in each sc of neck. 3 sc in opposite neck edge. Work buttonhole role: *Ch 2, skip next stitch. Sc in next 5 sts.* Repeat from * to * 3 times. Sc in end of each row to corner. Ch 1, turn.

Row 34: Sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch 2 space to neck. Sc in 1st 2 stitches of 3 sc group at corner of neck. Ch 2, hdc in same stitch. Skip next sc. *sl st, ch 2, hdc in same sc, skip next sc*. Repeat from * to * along neck to opposite neck edge. Sl st in 2nd sc of 3sc group at neck edge. Fasten off.

SLEEVES:
Row 1: Attach yarn with sl st to any stitch in armhole. Ch 2. Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to join in top of ch 2. Ch 2, turn.

Row 2-10: Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to join in top of ch 2. Ch 2, turn.

Row 11: (decrease row) Sc in same stitch. *sc next two stitches together, sc in next stitch* around. Sl st to join.

Row 12: Ch 2, hdc in same stitch. Skip next sc. *sl st, ch 2, hdc in same sc, skip next sc* around. Fasten off.

FINISHING: Weave in any loose ends. Sew buttons on to align with button holes.

Here's the Syndee Rose Cardigan in action - as I suspected, it's perfect on and nicely sized. Matching dinosaur not included.

Here's a scarf version of my recently posted pattern. I used a worsted weight yarn (Lily Chin Gramercy, 100% Merino Wool) and an 11 mm hook. I also added two rows of sc around the entire scarf to give it a more finished edge. It's very soft, the edges roll just a bit, and it drapes beautifully.

The "Morning Fog Mitts" pattern (available on ravelry) is emerging as my holiday gift of choice. Here are a few of the recent versions, all using leftover scraps of yarn.

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

New Year's Resolution #1 - write more patterns. I'm working on this pineapple sweater right now. One more pass and it should be ready to post.

Here's a quick and easy holiday project - a bulky ribbed scarf, or, if you're in a big hurry, a snug cowl.

Materials needed
• Crochet hook: 8 mm
• Yarn needle
For scarf:
• 2 skeins / 200 grams bulky weight yarn
For cowl:
• 3 buttons
• 1/2-3/4 skein / 50-75 grams bulky weight yarn

Gauge
In pattern, 6 sc and 5 rows = 2 inches

Directions
Ch 2, turn.

R1: 2 sc in second ch from hook (2 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R2 and all subsequent rows: work in back loops only.
R2: 2 sc in each st (4 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R3: 2 sc in second st from hook. Sc in each subsequent st. In final st, work 2 sc (6 sc). Ch 1, turn.

R4 - R10: repeat R3 until desired width. Repeating R3 through R10 = width of 5 inches.

Begin R11 (or your prefered width) on the tall side of the triangle:

R11: 2 sc in second st from hook. Sc in each subsequent st. In final 2 sts, work 1 st-dec. Ch 1, turn.

R12: 2 sc in second st from hook. Sc in each subsequent st. In final 2 sts, work 1 st-dec. Ch 1, turn.

R13: In first two sts, work 1 st-dec. Sc in each subsequent st. In final st, work 2 sc. Ch 1, turn.

Repeat rows 12-13 until desired length.

Finishing (Cowl):
Work until the cowl wraps comfortably around your deck. The shorter side should be 19-20 inches. Fasten off, weave in loose ends. Sew buttons on each corner of the triangle end.

Finishing (Scarf):
Work until the longest side is 55-60 inches. Starting on the short side of the triangle:

R1: In first two sts, work 1 st-dec. Sc in each st across. Do not sc in final st of row. Ch 1, turn.

R2: Work 1 st-dec. Sc in each st across. In final 2 sts, work 1 st-dec. Ch 1, turn.

Repeat rows 1-2 until all two sts remain. St-dec together, fasten off. Weave in loose ends.

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

This was a ravelry find - a quick, short-sleeved baby cardigan. My version is a bit wider and denser than the original. I don't love the look of it draped flat like this, but I think it will be cute on. It's a very fast pattern to make, and the instructions include a broad range of sizes (from newborn to 4 years).

I am so far behind on crochet this year. I think the crochet holiday gifts are going to be pretty limited, just a few small items. Here's a project I started nearly six months ago, and then had trouble finding enough yarn to complete it.

It's the "Cascade Scarf" by Rebecca Jackson (free pattern available here). This is my second attempt at the pattern - the first attempt went well, but the yarn used was much thicker. This is a very fine mohair (Sublime Yarns Kid Mohair Blend). It still makes for a wider scarf than the pattern pictures let on. The drape is quite nice.

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

Here's a quick pattern that's great for using up yarn scraps. I loved the result, and plan to make a few pairs to wear under jackets this winter. The pattern is available as a free ravelry download (search "morning fog mitts"). Sizing seems to be accurate (small is definitely small, not a one-size-fits-all size).

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

Here's the finished adult ribbed hat, previously described in this post. My first pass at it was far too large, and had to wrap out most of the stitches and start over. It came out perfectly, eventually - very soft, thin, and warm. I'm happy with the trim color - the request was for blue with a red stripe, but I didn't want a bright, nautical look. The red is nearly pink, and much more subtle.

I've been traveling for the last month - Catalina, Oregon, and two great weeks in Italy. I have several projects partially completed, and am looking forward to having some down time to wrap them up. In the meantime, here are two pics from friends of their adorable children modeling recent gifts.

This is a popular pattern on ravelry right now (Easy Pleated Crochet Bag), and it lives up to the name - very easy to make. It's hard to judge the scale from the pictures, but it's much smaller than I expected. It's really too small to be useful for an adult (even as an evening bag, the scale doesn't look quite right), but it's perfect for a child. I plan to give mine to a seven year old for Christmas.

I'd like to revisit the pattern and make a larger (wider) version. Definite potential.

Another take on my bib pattern. I've used a second color for the edging, and limited the scalloped border to the neckline only.

I've been slaving away on two hats recently. I wanted to recreate Galen's favorite hat in adult and baby sizes, and have completely failed on prior attempts. It's a very fine weave, and the hat should be very soft and thin - the wrong yarn / hook combination can make for a stiff hat. Here's the baby version, which is worked in double crochet (back loops only) with a 3.25 mm hook.

Guidelines for success:

Baby Version: Ch 2, work 8 dc into second chain from hook. Next row work 2 dc in every stitch, following row 2 dc, 1 dc; following row 2 dc, 1 dc, 1dc; etc. Work until desired size (or increase until row 8), them work in dc to desired length.

Adult: same, but start with 12 dc in second chain from hook.

In either case, you'll need a hook between 3.25 and 3.75 for a fingering yarn. You may need to try all three to achieve the right texture.

A custom gift for a Datsun fanatic (and his new baby). Close enough?

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

My new favorite pattern - I made the pair in under three hours with a few scraps of worsted weight yarn I had leftover from a prior project. So cute, and a very simple pattern. There's an adult-sized version as well. Both available from Sylver Designs: http://www.sylverdesigns.com/pattern/booties/maryjaneskimmers.html

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

Another long work in progress. The pattern is a bit complicated (you make a hat, and then work chains of sc around each row to create the "fur"), but it's quite adorable and very warm. I was tempted to turn the hat inside out and make it a really cozy lined hat. I may try the technique as a neck cozy. The pattern runs a little big, but baby will grow into it.

The pattern is available on Etsy (http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=6020708). Lots of other very cute projects in the same shop.

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

This is a repeat of the very first sweater I ever made. It's the "Lazy Days Daisies Sweater" from a Coats & Clark booklet. It's very simple - almost entirely worked in sc - which was great for the rather loud coral yarn I had on hand.

As it turns out, I was one ball of yarn short, and went through a three month process of trying to find another skein. It was only distributed in England, and discontinued several years ago. How I ended up with 4 skeins is anyone's guess. But I found some finally on ebay.co.uk, and am very pleased with the results.

it still fits! (thanks Alicia!)
Originally uploaded by dubteka.

Here's baby Fabian in his hat. I should make more of these - it has a rolled brim when he was smaller, but is adapting well as he gets older.

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Originally uploaded by aliciamalia.

Here's my finished pinwheel bowl, a case for the Springtime Coasters I recently completed (shown upside down). This was made in Red Heart Super Saver. I made a cotton version as well (which I prefer), but it's a bit slimed from my stiffening project. I'll try felting it and see if the ribs are still visible.

The bowl itself is quite stiff and would easily work as a holder for change or keys.

Pattern:
Materials needed
• 1 skein / 1 oz cotton or acrylic worsted weight yarn (I prefer the results with cotton)
• Crochet hook: 3.25 mm
• Yarn needle

Special Stitch:
Front Post Double Crochet [fpdc]: yo (yarn over) your hook; starting from the front, hook around post of the row below by inserting hook to the right of the stitch and back around the front on the left side*, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops.
* Reverse if you’re a lefty

Directions
Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc).

R1: 11 dc in 4th ch from hook. Join will sl st to top of beginning ch 4 (12 dc). Do not turn.

R2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), fpdc in same st, (dc, fpdc) in each st around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (24 sts). Do not turn.

R3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, fpdc in next st, *2 dc in next st, fpdc around post of next fpdc, repeat from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 (36 sts). Do not turn.

R4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st, dc in next st, fpdc around post of next fpdc. *2 dc in next st, dc in next st, fpdc around post of next fpdc, repeat from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 (48 sts). Do not turn.

R5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, fpdc around post of next fpdc. *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, fpdc around post of next fpdc, repeat from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 (60 sts). Do not turn.

R6: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Working in front loops only, dc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 (60 sts). Do not turn.

R7: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 3 sts, fpdc in next st. *dc in next 4 sts, fpdc in next st [fpdc will be aligned over fpdc of base], repeat from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 (60 sts). Do not turn.

R8-9: Repeat R7.

R10: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), st-dec over next 2 sts, dc in next st, fpdc in next st. *dc in next st, st-dec over next 2 sts, dc in next st, fpdc in next st, repeat from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 (48 sts). Do not turn.

R11: Ch 3, *st-dec over next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Lid:
Repeat rnds 1-7.

R8: Sc in each st around (60 sc). Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.